Wallaman Falls

Wallaman Falls from the lookout

Wallaman Falls are 268 metres in height, making them the highest permanent single-drop waterfall in Australia. The gorge below them is one limb of a branching network, the Herbert River and its tributaries, reaching up into the ranges North-west of Ingham. Stony Creek tumbles over the lip and the water picks up so much speed on the way down that it has drilled a hole twenty metres deep at the foot of the falls.

Wallaman-Mt-Fox-mapThe drive from Mount Fox (see previous post) to Wallaman Falls is not long on the map but includes a long winding road down the escarpment and an equally long, equally winding, but slightly wider, road back up to the top. Both boast spectacular views.

The road forks just over the crest; turn right for a short drive to the Wallaman Falls lookout or keep going straight ahead for an even shorter drive to the National Parks camping ground. The road ends a few hundred metres further on, continuing only as a walking track which is part of the Wet Tropics Great Walk (map, pdf).

There are several linked viewing areas at the lookout, some looking across the head of the gorge to the falls, as in my top picture, and others looking down the gorge towards the coast:

rainforested valley
The zig-zagging gorge downstream from Wallaman Falls

A steep walking track winds down into the gorge from the latter, into a dim environment eternally damp with spray from the falls. I didn’t make the effort this trip but remember it, from my only previous visit to the falls, as a place of slippery boulders, chilly mists and mossy trees; swimming is possible but discouraged. The swimming holes near the camping grounds are far better on all counts – prettier, safer, easier to get to, and with nicer picnic areas nearby. An 800 metre loop track through the lush tropical rainforest connects them to the camping ground.

Stony Creek swimming hole near the campground
Stony Creek swimming hole near the campground

This tranquil section of Stony Creek above the falls is home to turtles and platypus. I saw plenty of the former and I think I saw one of the latter but it was too far away to be sure.

two turtles
Saw-shelled Turtles in Stony Creek near the camping ground

Around the camping ground I saw lots of Scrub Turkeys (they were a bit of a pest, actually, continually threatening to make off with any food left unprotected) and one 1.5m goanna, more formally known as a Lace Monitor, Varanus varius. It was wandering around on the lawns when I returned to camp but unhurriedly climbed a tree when I approached.

black goanna
Lace monitor
goanna close-up
Keeping an eye on me

There was plenty of smaller wildlife, too – birds, insects and spiders – around the camping ground and in the rainforest nearby but I have put those photos in an album on flickr rather than here.

Life in ‘the outback’

My Easter trip to Western Queensland began with a visit to a cattle property, Rainsby, owned and operated by Diane Alford, my cousin-in-law, and her husband Bill. To get there from Townsville, you head inland on the Hughenden and Mt Isa road, turn left after 290 km and head South for another hour and a half on a road that is partly sealed, partly gravel.

Rainsby covers 121 square miles, about 10 miles East-West by 12 miles North-South (about 14 by 17 km), and the road from the gate to the house is no suburban driveway. Drive for a while and you come to Torrens Creek, which at the peak of the Wet can be a kilometre wide and at Easter was still big enough to stop our car though not a 4WD. The house is a couple of kilometres further in, so we were glad that Diane could meet us at the creek.

The road into Rainsby
No suburban driveway: the road into Rainsby

Diane wrote a newspaper article six months ago and in it she introduces her family and the property beautifully:

My name is Diane Alford and, with my husband Bill, I live and work on Rainsby, the 23 000 hectare (230 square kilometre, or 57 000 acres in the old money) beef cattle property we, and the bank, own in central western Queensland. Rainsby is 160 km south of Torrens Creek (pop. 17) and 140 km north of Aramac (pop. 400). Our closest large centre is Longreach (pop. 3000), a three hour drive south west. Here, along with four nearly-grown children, we have raised cattle for domestic consumption for the past 13 years.

Rainsby is wild, sparsely inhabited and, I believe, beautiful. It is predominantly black gidgee country interspersed with sand ridges and a hard Spinifex northern end. Torrens Creek weaves its way through the length of the property, exiting into the Thompson river system and finally reaching Lake Eyre. Our principal pasture is Mitchell grass, with seasonal Flinders grass and various burrs, while the sand ridges support blue grasses and a range of other perennials. The Artesian Basin is close to the surface in Rainsby, and bores flow without pumping. It’s Waltzing Matilda country, complete with billabongs and gilgais, coolabahs and hundreds of thousands of black gidgee trees; and we love it.

Rainsby has a 480 – 500 mm (18 to 20 inch) annual rainfall and, seasons allowing, we aim to run 1500 mixed-aged Brahman cattle. Our temperature ranges from 2 degrees Celsius in Winter, to 42 degrees in Summer. With luck the seasons start out green with the rivers full, and ends golden and waiting for storms. But of course that’s not always the case, and that’s where the management comes in.

The article from which I have quoted was concerned primarily with the negative perceptions of beef production and consumption.  Diane argues (rightly, in my view) that graziers like Bill and herself are unthinkingly blamed for environmentally damaging practices which are common elsewhere but are simply not followed in Western Queensland. That section of her article is now here.

Farm sheds
Farm buildings, seen from the house

Returning to our visit … Easter Saturday was a big day in the area, with a wedding and christening on a neighbouring property. Guests came from miles around. (When you think about it, they had to: no-one lives within miles of their house, just as no-one lives within miles of Diane and Bill. The drive from one house to the next often takes half an hour, even when the roads are good.)

Anyway, guests came from miles around – Aramac and Torrens Creek, Cairns and points beyond. The gardens were beautifully prepared, trestle tables and a dance floor set up, and lanterns were hung in the trees although they were hardly needed with the Easter moon. Everyone dressed up for the occasion of course but the main thing was the rare chance to meet and yarn to rarely-seen neighbours, and the evening went quite late.

Fishing in Torrens Creek
Wetting a line ... and a body

On Sunday we went for a family picnic down at a waterhole on Torrens Creek. I went for a walk along the river bank with my camera, bird-spotting (bird photos will come soon), while some of the younger people threw in fishing lines. All they caught was a turtle, which was released unharmed:

speed-blurred pic of turtle
Escape! The fastest turtle in the West.

On Monday, sadly, we had to leave – some of us to return to Townsville to work on Tuesday, while I went alone a little further North and West to Porcupine Gorge (yet another Green Path post which is still in the pipeline) and White Mountains.